Encircled by a ring of interstates, and skirted to the east and south by the Parkway, modest ASHEVILLE , roughly 100 miles southwest of Boone, retains an appealing downtown core. It's also something of a New Age center, with ephemera stores, holistic healing sessions and a tradition among the region's farmers of growing medicinal herbs. Two miles south on Biltmore Avenue, the Biltmore Estate is the largest private mansion in the US (daily 8.30am-5pm; $33; tel 828/255-1776). Built in the late nineteenth century by George Vanderbilt and loosely modeled on a Loire chateau, it's a wild piece of nouveau riche folly, from the Victorian chic of the indoor palm court to the landscaped gardens.

Asheville's Greyhound/Trailways terminal is inconveniently located at 2 Tunnel Rd, two miles out of downtown on bus #13 or #4 stopping at the Innsbruck Mall. Central motels include the American Court , 85 Merrimon Ave (tel 1-800/233-3582, fax 828/253-2507, ; $75-100); for a bit of pampering, head for the luxurious Cedar Crest B&B , 674 Biltmore Ave (tel 828/252-1389, fax 828/253-7667, ; $130-160). The nearest campground is Bear Creek RV Park , 81 S Bear Creek Rd, off I-40 to the west (tel 828/253-0798, ; from $26 per night).

There are several upmarket places to eat , among them tiny Salsas , 6 Patton Ave (tel 828/252-9805), serving up an aromatic blend of Mexican and Caribbean dishes, though tables can be hard to come by. The Laughing Seed Café , 40 Wall St (tel 828/252-3445), has wonderful vegetarian food (check out the "meatloaf"), while Beanstreets Coffee , 3 Broadway (tel 828/255-8180), is a fun place to hang out. Although Asheville is small, there are enough students to keep a reasonable nightlife scene going; Barley's , 42 Biltmore Ave (tel 828/255-0504), is the best brewpub in town and offers good food and live music. Ashville Music Zone , 81 Broadway (tel 828/255-8811), is a very popular venue which caters to all sorts of music tastes, and Jack of the Wood , 95 Patton Ave (tel 828/252-5445), is an enjoyable pub.

Pick up information on the numerous local summer music and craft festivals from the downtown visitor center , 151 Haywood St (tel 828/258-6101 or 1-800/257-1300, ). August's Mountain Dance and Folk Festival features bluegrass and traditional dancing, while the hugely enjoyable Leaf Festival , a folk music and arts and crafts gathering held in mid-May and October in BLACK MOUNTAIN , fourteen miles east on I-40 (one bus a day), showcases Appalachian and world folk music, usually attracting major European and African musicians. There's little to do in Black Mountain otherwise, though the clear fresh air, pretty views and relaxed pace make a stroll worthwhile. The Monte Vista there, at 308 W State St (tel 828/669-2119, fax 828/669-0596, ; $75-100), is a small, very comfortable hotel with regional decor, while the Town Pump , 143 Cherry St (tel 828/669-4808), is a tavern/music venue.

Twenty miles southeast of the Parkway on US-64/74, the natural granite tower of Chimney Rock sticks out from the almost-sheer side of Hickory Nut Gorge (summer daily 8.30am-5.30pm; rest of year daily 8.30am-4.30pm; park stays open about an hour and a half past last ticket sale; $10; tel 828/625-9611 or 1-800/277-9611). After taking the elevator to the top, you can clamber up and down steps and walk along protected walkways atop the impressive cliffs. Many of the climactic moments of The Last of the Mohicans were filmed here; you may recognize the mighty waterfall that drops 400ft from the western end of the gorge. From the top you can see Lake Lure , where the movie Dirty Dancing was filmed.